Gun drilled axels

[Metal Chip]

Does anybody use gun drilled axels in R rear?

[billetbirdcage]

Yes, I have with out problems on both axles with open engines. If you are running a crate you won't have problems. If you are running 800hp+ and on hooked up tracks you might have a problem. I have only broke on axle in my life time, but have stripped a few spools out.

[Metal Chip]

Mr Bird thanks for you'r reply,
Sinse you use them I guess you feel they are worth the extra money?
My project for the winter is trying to loose some rotating weight.

[billetbirdcage]

I'm thinking they are 25 dollars or so more, however you will be saving unsprung wieght but the rotating is minimal because it is removed from the center of the axle so it doesn't effect the rotating much. You would be better off using that money on a bigger diameter item like rotors or wheels.

I always ran them, but I just skipped a dinner or two to make up for the cost.

I have a ton of stuff in my shop left over and I have alot of light wieght stuff some new in box some used. I know I have a couple of new gundrilled axles, what lengths you looking for?

[Metal Chip]

Hmmmmm..... Not so much worried about unsprung weight.
We are preaty close on total weight, just not quite fast enough.
Going to have to re think this.

[billetbirdcage]

Most bang for the buck would be lighter rotors, wheels, or flywheel/clutch set up if you don't have a bert/brinn. If you need to replace the rotors look at the regular 1.25" wide waved rotors (Afco and other sell them) they will remove about 2 pounds of unsprung and rotating weight. Wheel are also a good place to shave rotating wieght but can be expensive is you already have a lot of wheels. In this case, when you bend one get some lighter ones like the weld XL or the dura-lite (I know they had problems cracking before but they all have been corrected by the new owners- we tested them and have alot of races on them without any signs of cracks). Hubs are also a place you can save some weight, if you have the STD older willwood hubs they are 8# and the Mag ones or the Startlite ones are around 6.5. With the Star-lite ones you also save the wieght of the 5 bolt verses 8 bolt driveplates and the wieght of the extra bolts on the back hubs. The driveshaft is another place, aluminum verses steel.

Look for anything that has a larger diameter that rotates. However unsprung is similar in importance as rotating, in my opinion.

Also if it is a dedicated crate car, most of the drive parts are made for open engines (800+ hp) so you can get away will much lighter components and internals with the crates power level. Rearends, spools, axles, internal trans components, driveshafts, Q/C gears, ring and pinion and ETC all can be lightened and still get by. It boils down to how much do you want ot can afford to spend.

What guys save on the engine some will dump that savings into the car. Is it needed to be competitive? No, I know alot of guys that win in the touring crates that have regular no light wieght component cars and legal non modified engines. All that extra is an advantage but not a must.