Mastersbilt

[lcj29]

Need mastersbilt help no side bite no forward traction any suggestions

[Rocket Bonehead]

It would probably help us a great deal if you posted the following information:

- your current setup (percentages, springs, shock brand/valving, bar settings, PH Bar settings, type of engine, ballast locations, front end settings, etc...)
- Tire rule
- Description of the track, or tracks, that you are currently running
- A detailed description of how the car handles starting with corner entry, then middle, and finally exit



RB

[lcj29]

2002 round tube car 500lf 5/4 integra 100psi rf 450 4/7 integra 75psi rr 250 3/4 integra 75psi lr in frt 125 psi in rear 225 6/2 175 psi steel block 2320 20 gallons 54.4 left 53.8 rear with driver one piece lead top of shock in lr . High speed 1/2 mile momentum track 1600 tires open race coming up also 350on 5th 3/6 75psi 38 inches left top rod down one from top left botom 2nd hole up right top 2nd one up bottom 2nd up better drive if index lr

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I'd certainly move the 5th back closer to the axle provided the traction is missing as soon as you pick up the throttle. I've had 35" work well for me even on long straights.

How much cross% or left rear do you have? Is it climbing the bars on the lr at all? The left side percent may be a touch too high. What do you think Bone?

I have little to no experience with the 1600 tire.

[lcj29]

120 lr 51% cross not up on bars 8 1/2inch on frame just below drive shaft on j-bar

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

How about static steer? Are your right side bars 17.5" and 15.5"?

[lcj29]

Yes are both the same left & right 17.5& 15.5

[pinionangle]

I'd start with the 5th coil @ 36" providing your lift arm will allow for it. I've also found that my steel block masters likes a stiffer right front spring. I've been on a 500 and 550 most of the year with good results. We run the 1600 tire some and we tend to raise the j-bar a touch on the chassis to help with side bite.

Also, have you looked at your lower LR bar, does it look like its hitting on the axle tube? What bird cages are you running?

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I agree with pinionangle on that. I like lf500 rf500 lr250 and rr225 with an iron block in a newer MasterS. You could up the lf to 550 if you need to tighten entry.

[lcj29]

spring and shock on 5th coil ok or should i try something different thanks for the input

[pinionangle]

I run a 350 lbs spring @ 36" with a 3/5 shock. I dont differ from this hardly at all.

My springs always stay right around LF500 RF 550 LR 250 RR 225.

I start with more right side bar angle and work from there as the night changes. How much left rear did you say yoru running?

[jjrt]

with that 350 spring are you only getting 3 inches of pinion travel

[lcj29]

start 100# lr 3.5 to 4 inches of travel when back closer to rear end

[pinionangle]

JJRT if your asking me, I get anywhere from 4 to 5 inches. I'll have to look tonight but im pretty sure thats what it is.


lcj29 I usally leave the shop with 80 to 100 lbs myslef. I've noticed my car stays pretty good anywhere in this ballpark. This past sat night I added about 50 lbs of left rear to mine and when the track locked down and took rubber I got super tight. If I ever make it back to that track im going to leave it alone.

Good luck.

[jjrt]

thanx pinion,i thought you were only suppose to have about 3 to 3.5 inches max due to over rideing the pinion,

[lcj29]

someone told me to tilt the 5th coil shock back 2 inches on top any one try this or know what it will do

[bullittwrench]

Your setup is very similar to what we run our 02 square car. We run super late so our RF is considerably softer but the rest is very close except for rear %. We run 55%, 53.8 seems light especially if your track goes dry slick.

[midplate]

My response may seem elementary but I believe it should be mentioned in alot of these post. Since you are running a 1600 tire rule, this is the first place that needs attention. Every dynamic occurrence of the chassis is initiated by the traction created by the tires.

It is hard to recommend a method of grooving and siping without knowing the track surface but it might be that you could cut the tires up more.

The other thing to consider with these hard tires is the life of the rubber. Usually 3 to 4 heat cycles and they start to lose some of their ability to generate traction. A good test is when grinding, rub some of the rubber between your fingers. You should be able to still feel some oil. If the rubber feels dry, the tire is done.