2000 Rayburn

[racer68]

Trying to get the lengths of the upper A-frames on a 2000 Rayburn. I called Rayburn and they just said they make all their own parts and did not give me any measurments. Anybody know the lengths on the upper A-frames?

Thanks, MT

[Zero Fast]

Dang I'm good! lol :D

http://poske.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl/file=Rayburn/page=index.htm/SID=95565014

[racer68]

Thanks man. Just what I was looking for.

[racer68]

Who is going to be the resident Rayburn expert in here so I can aggravate them to death? Need to get info on what parts to use and not use or just replace with something new. Thanks

[coletrickle]

What would you like to know?

[racer68]

First, I want to know if there is a way to tell the different year models somehow on the chassis. Just wanted to make sure it is a 2000.

Second, the car came with a lift bar and 2 10/90 shocks facing backwards. I didn't know if that was the correct equipment. I know the panhard bar isn't the right one because it’s a rubber bushing J-bar and the car is a right side panhard bar car.

Mostly what I want to run is the 2 way pull bar with a backward facing
10/90. I just wanted to know some of the better combinations for adjustment and consistency. If what I want to run isn't right just let me know.

The tracks are going to be southeast, red clay, fast during heats and dry as a bone during the race. The banking at my local tracks very from 0 degree to 30 degree so would need to be able to vary the adjustments a good bit. Just want to be able to adjust without using the tires. It will be a crate car with tire rules so nothing other than stagger with the tires.

I have seen that tall birdcage for the left side and didn't know if it would be very helpful. I have to get new birdcages anyway so I was going to get it if it was worth getting.

These are just a few of the questions. I am in the getting of the correct parts portion of the build.

Thanks for any help.

[coletrickle]

You probably will want to start with a zero 14 running to the back. I recomend hypercharged (never had one fail me yet). Two makes them very tight in unless you are driving the car in too hard. Its hard to realize that you are doing this especially in a rayburn because the are naturally tight on entry. A guy tends to force them alittle more to get it to turn. I would also recommend running the pull bar to the left. The 99 thru 02s really like that. What are you calling a two way pullbar?

[racer68]

It's a pullbar that works in both directions. Under throttle and brakes. This is not the exact one I was talking about, but this is an example.

http://poske.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl/file=BSB/page=index.htm/SID=180145889
Very bottom of page.

I go the exact one bookmarked at home. At work now. I was trying to get away from using the lift bar.

What brand is the 0 14 shock? I am not familier with that type number. I have seen those numbers, but didn't know what kind of shock they were.

[racer68]

Here is the one I want to use. It took me 5 seconds to look up. Sometimes I am too dang lazy. :-D

http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=14&ClassID=188&SubclassID=904&ProductID=1126

[billetbirdcage]

Anytime the pullbar is used for braking forces (two way pull bar) and the pull bar has downward angle to the frame, it is pushing the pullbar and thus trying to lift the rear tire more under braking then a torque arm/brake arm. This will cause the car to be looser on entry then a not 2-way pull bar or torque arm used for braking.

One isn't better then the other, one is just going to be looser in then the other. Those cars are generally looser on entry then a bar car and a lot of people struggle with side bite, so if that is the case with you I wouldn't use a 2 way pullbar. If you are fighting a tight condition then it may be for you.

Make sure you have the correct length of axle dampner shock for the rear end brackets and car you have. If you bottom out the rear facing dampner shock/shocks it will unload the rear end due to the shocks running down hill and try to lift the rear end.

[racer68]

So billet,
What would be your recommendation for the pull bar setup on this car? Not dealing with the spring settings and stuff just equipment. It came with the torque arm and no pull bar. I am sure it got used on another car. What would give me the most consistent response from a variety of tracks?

Also could you tell me what kind of shock a zero 14 shock is? I am use to the traditional numbers. 90/10 and stuff like that.

[billetbirdcage]

I was just piont out that there is a difference between the two.

The STD rayburn deal is a non 2-way pullbar and a torque arm for the 6th coil (braking forces only). I would go with that unless you are fightening a tight entry problem then the 2-way bar may help with that. If you don;t have a rpullbar I'd just get one from CJ or use the single pull afco one, should be listed by the other one that was posted.

The older car and older set-ups had very little side bite compaired to a bar car, and is what most complained about. The newer car and newer set-ups have gained alot of side bite as compaired to the older stuff.

The axle dampner is a #14 in rebound and a #1 or #0 in compression, they can't make compression higher then a #9 but can make rebound as high as #14 for whatever reason I don't now. With the shock facing backwards the rebound is the controling the engine braking forces, were a front mounted one is using the compression for those forces. The 90/10 you refered to is a #9/#1 where the 14 shock they are taking about is a #1/#14

[racer68]

Ok, thanks.
I am in the process of getting all the parts up to build the car. I just don't want to get the wrong thing. Or waste money.

One thing I am debating is welding a panhard bar mount in the same place as the right side just on the left so I can run a left side J-bar to try to get more body roll. I can get the measurements right as far as getting it in right spot. I was trying to decide how beneficial it would be or it would be necessary at all. Just wanted to hear some thoughts on it.

[coletrickle]

If you dont want to run a lift bar i have a rear mounted pull bar that i had made a billet proof but i am sure that if i got the pics together billetbirdcage could probably make you one? Carrera is the ones that i use. You will probably have to call qa1 to get now i have the six of them i have not since before they got bought out. These things seem to last forever. What billet is telling is exactly correct under braking a two way deal will bounce the rear tire on corner entry. If you would like i will try to get some pice together of some of the things that i do to a Rayburn?

[coletrickle]

I am a slow typer so i am not keeping up but if you want feel free to call me at 618-694-2040 The j-bar deal on a rayburn can be the greatest thing or the worst thing the mounting points are very cretical and the short swing arm makes it hard to get the mount in the right spot.

[racer68]

I would love to see the list. Anything that has helped you would help me. I am new to this Rayburn thing and need all the help I can get. I do have a lot of good machinist friends that can make almost anything so pictures and measurements would be great. I already did the measurements for the J-bar and it will work. I just didn't know if I was going the wrong way with it.

[coletrickle]

let me see if i can get some pics real quick how much longer will you be on?

[racer68]

I am at work till 4am EST. Not working just here. :-D So 6hrs to answer your question.

[coletrickle]

i am up loading the pics now if it is possible pm me your number there are some things on here that i will probably need to go into detail on

[racer68]

Let me get this 3rd shift group started and I will call you in about 15 min.

[coletrickle]

Okay i have all the pics uploaded is there an email address that i acan send them to?

[racer68]

Check your PM.

[racer68]

cole,
Where are you getting your parts from? That red colored parts are new to me. I understand most of what your doing. Just the chain pull dampning system is new to me. Did you make that or buy it?

[coletrickle]

I drew up what needed and sent it to Bj pearson st billet proof and he brought it to me at the trade show last year. If you want any of that red stuff i am dealer or you can call billet proof yourself and get them

[coletrickle]

What do you think of that frontend?

[coletrickle]

i just sent more pics

[racer68]

Yeah where did you get those parts? I haven't seen that setup before.

[coletrickle]

I just drew up what i wanted and billet proof made it for me

[racer68]

How many races has it been through? Those parts can't weigh anything.

[coletrickle]

They arn't alot lighter than the steel but they are solid whereas the steels is tubular. ALOT stronger than the steel with special parts that are cheap and easy to replace that are designed to break. Been on the car for about 46 races.

[coletrickle]

forgot to mention the arn't any ball joints

[racer68]

I think I am going to have to keep it a little more simple. I still am trying to figure out what I need to put the car together. The pictures are real helpful. All the home bracket and mount stuff is right up my alley. Your stuff really shows what I need to get then modify. Thanks again.

[coletrickle]

ya all that aluminum stuff isnt need mine doesn't have it that was a car that i done for a customer. moving the frame rails in is a must and i would highly recomend at least adding the 4 bar mounts on the right side even if u arnt planning on using them right away