View Full Version : 07 Masters RR Brake
bullittwrench
07-02-2007, 03:45 PM
Will putting the RR caliper on the cage tighten the car on entry in the slick? I have it clamped to the tube now. If I put it on the cage do I still drop the RLB to the bottom? I would think this would defeat the purpose of using the RR bar angle to plant the tire under braking. What about a 90/10 shock on top the rear? I'm maxed out on j-bar and RR lead so I need to look somewhere else. Oh yeah, the car is NOT on the bars on entry. 550-LF, 400-RF. Car is good from the center out, just need to slow the throttle down a little for him.
Thanks Guys
billetbirdcage
07-02-2007, 04:08 PM
Yes floating the RR caliper will tighten entry as long as you on the brakes. Adjust the lower bar as normal, as most the downward pressure on the tire is coming from the upper bar anyway because it has the most angle. The lower bar will effect the pressure on the RR tire but just adjust it like you normally would.
One thing to be aware of is that floating the RR can cause some incosistant handling at times. The car will be tighter on the brakes and when the driver releases the brakes the car (not really goes loose--just not as tight as it was) frees up and sometimes the driver feels this as the car breaking loose and starts to counter steer to the right, so now the wheels are maybe turned slightly right so when he picks up the throttle he may notice or pick up a push. This can come and go as you don't always use the brakes the same time or same amount every lap (lap cars, trying to get under someone, try a different line, change speed into the corner, and ETC). Just something to be aware of some people or tracks exacturate this.
Another thing to keep in mind is that making a RR bar angle changes is going to effect the braking on the RR and vice versa. This thing usually contradict themselves as far as adjustments. Like raising the RRU will loosen exit but will make the car tight into the corner and if the brake is floater even tighter yet. So usually in this situation is you don't worry (but keep it in mind) about the negitive effect on the brake and adjust bars like normal.
The 90/10 is very temporary on the tightening effect, meaning if you are out of the throttle early it will tighten the car by pushing down on the rear end (like a hydralic spring) until the 90/10 quits compressing then the effect is gone. So it realy only tighten the car for the amount of time it takes to compress the axle dampner, where this happens is dependant on when you get out of the gas and the rear end pinions down or the car hikes down.
bullittwrench
07-04-2007, 07:35 AM
With floating the RR brake, do I need to make any changes to the 5th coil shock or 6th coil spring? I have a 7r on the 5th coil. Isn't that too much if only the LR tire/brake is applying downward force to the torque arm? Just wondering if the 7r is so stiff it will shear the LR contact patch under braking? Keep in mind, I'm on a nasty dry slick. 6th coil spring is a 400.
Thanks
billetbirdcage
07-06-2007, 02:42 PM
I can't say with 100% certainty but I don't think you see a difference because of the rebound on the fifth coil. I would leave it alone.
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