Wiring help and dry sump plumbing?

[bullittwrench]

Picked up a new frame yesterday and am starting from scratch. Does anyone have a wiring diagram they use? Typical LM, start button, guage lights and ignition switch, remote solenoid, msd. Old car was a cobbled up mess. I want to do the new one neatly and the right way. Also need tips on proper wire ends and wire.
I looked at another post on dry sump plumbing and want to make sure I have it right. Pressure from the pump to filter to cooler to block. Scavenge out of pump to oberg to top of tank. Is this correct?

Thanks

[billetbirdcage]

Dry sump: Correct


There are a thousand and one ways to wire a car, biggest tip I could say is to not use those blue wire taps (goes onto a wire and allows you to tap nother wire into it) and they always seem to not make contact after a while. Take the time to solder the wires were possible and use a good crimping tool, one that has a round cut out on one side and a tit sticking out on the other. The ones that are round one both side do a lousy job of crimping and usually pull out.

If you don't have guages yet get the glow in the dark ones then you only have to wire the idot lights, but why you need them the driver always watches the guages, right. :-D.

I like to install a power block into the dash compartment so you don't have 50 wires going to the soleniod. They are only a dollar or two and come with a jumper so you just attach one wire from the battery or hot side of the soleniod and then all the other terminals are hot. You can use a u shaped crimp on terminal to attach to the power block which may taking them on or off easier. This way you can have one wire to each terminal and it will be easier to trace something down if you have a problem later then having a ton of wires hooked to the same terminal. I also like to use several colors for wiring, so you can trace wires easier after they are taped or in a loop. Like one color just for the starter soleniod and so on.

[Kromulous]

One thing i alwasy do is wire the MSD box directly to the battery, the two main read & black wires. Never had one go bad, i think the battery cushions or dampens spikes to the MSD. If your going to run one.

I always ground the engine to the frame with 2 or 4 gauge wire, and then in back, or where the battery is, from the frame to the battery. I weld bolts onto the frame, no self tapping do dads, there nothing but trouble.

We had a car that was in the same boat, wires everywhere, caused alot of trouble, until i cut it all out and started over.

Krom.

[bullittwrench]

Should I run a #12 wire from the hot post on the solenoid to the terminal block and then branch off that with #16 to the switches? Is that heavy enough for the remote solenoid trigger wire?
Also can someone give me the proper line sizes for the dry sump? ( all alum. engine )

Thanks

[billetbirdcage]

I'd use a 12 on the suction lines from the pan to the pump and a 16 minimum from the manifold back to the tank. All pressure line can be a 10 but I'd use a 12, just makes it easier and I like the bigger size.

[mbaker76]

12GA would prob do it, but if it were me Id run #10 to the block then use #14 from there on for the switches, etc. Last one i did I used #12 for pretty much all the wires,.except the lights which were prewired. I know it would add a little weight, ( a few ounces) but i think the smaller guage terminals are harder to mess with and arent as strong as the heavier ones.

Also I ran a #12 feed from the solenoid to the MSD, then a seperate feed to the switches, lights etc. It does get to be a mess having several extra wires run to the solenoid. I think the next time i will use a power block, plus it will make changine componenets easier if we have too.